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November 04, 2013 10:40 am Photographed by Yannis Vlamos

Giambattista Valli Fall 2013 Couture

By Lisa J. Springsteel

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Giambattista Valli channeled “porcelain goddesses” for his fall 2013 couture collection and in doing so, divided his 39 looks into four segments representing renowned porcelain artisans from around the globe, including Capodimonte from Italy, Sèvres from France, Meissen from Germany, and Wedgwood from England, employing their idiosyncratic colors and enchanting patterns in his ultrafeminine looks. “Flowers and colors are what women want from me. That’s what I give them, but every time I get inspired by something different,” Valli said as he addressed the press before his show.

To pay homage to Capodimonte, Valli offered skater skirts decorated with three-dimensional lace and carnation appliqués on the hem or as a pleated tulle skirt trimmed with lace and extensive floral embroidery, tailored jackets made from a unique organza paper fabric, and short evening dresses. Representing Sèvres was an asymmetrical silk crepe gown with a red flower print. 

On behalf of Wedgwood was white ribbon embroidery of rococo strolls on a delicate and airy sky blue strapless dress, and a floral blue and white embroidered evening coat. For Meissen, solid floor-length dresses in light pink, red, yellow, and stark white were embellished with silk floral treatments.  

The color palette was divided into four main groups, beginning with a white, sky blue and sapphire arrangement, leading to the second group which offered rose petal designs. The penultimate was a floral group, and then a color-blocked set, consisting of lilac and chartreuse, black and white, and red, black, and pink combinations. Each was embellished with flowers aplenty. Valli collaborated with Roman jewelry designer Luigi Scialanga who provided jeweled headpieces in tarnished black and gold referencing an ancient Roman civilization, as well as gold-dipped gunmetal belts.

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